2023 HEARTLAND VERMENTINO

95 POINTS || Matt Dunne The smell of a freshly shucked oyster by the ocean with the salt leaping out of the glass in spades alongside, lemon pith, elderflower, white almond and freshly brewed chamomile tea. In the mouth this wine is medium bodied, with a salty pink grapefruit core and a touch of green mango at the back. There is delicious drinking going on here – a combination of that aromatic lift backed up by a soft but refreshing texture. We often talk about flavour but Ben Glaetzer has managed to really elevate the mouth feel here. Heralding from 20 year old vines, Ben cold fermented in closed tanks for 12-14 days and then it spent a few months on lees. It would sit in a sports team as one of the great all-rounders – it’s nimble, crafty and edgy. Most of all this wine has a long, intense line and length that is consistent, an absolute gem when it comes to both framework and personality. Drink this with porchetta – on the spit for 8 hours, served with rocket salad, green pear and a bourbon infused balsamic glaze.