Heard it on the grapevine: Ben Glaetzer
Jane Faulkner, The Age - Epicure Feb 2006We all know about Max Shubert, the creator of Grange. Most people
have heard of Peter Lehmann, Vanya Cullen and their contemporaries.
But what are the names we should be watching now....
Ben Glaetzer: There aren't many Australian winemakers who can claim to have made
areni in its native homeland of Armenia. But Ben Glaetzer has. And he
was only 21 at the time.
In 1999 Glaetzer was assigned to work in
Armenia for about three months. The areni was a rather ordinary
variety, and he also had to cope with sub-standard conditions whilst
teaching the local winemaker and workers, more accustomed to the
distillery process in brandy making, about producing table wines.
He politely describes the experience as a 'challenge', particularly as
he later needed body-guards with high-powered weapons for protection
from the Russian mafia and other dodgy types wanting to sell their
equally dodgy fruit.
These days, Glaetzer, 28, is leading a less
dangerous but no less exciting life, spending up to four months year
travelling the world promoting his wines, of which there are several:
the impressive Glaetzer wines, including Amon-Ra, his dedication to
Barossa shiraz, and Godolphin, a shiraz-cabernet blend he’s been
perfecting blending for about six years; and Heartland wines.. Plus
he's a director/winemaker at Barossa Vintners, best described as a
mega-business with a handful of other partners. It's exhausting
just trying ton keep up with this bloke.
"The ultimate promoter,
Murray Tyrrell, taught me to make whatever you want, package it well
but make sure you sell it. If you can't sell your wine then you
have nothing. I worked for him (in the late 1990s) and he knew
how to run a business". More than anything, regionality is what
Glaetzer wants his legacy to be on the world's vinous stage.
"There
is more to Australia than generic chardonnay, there are different
regions and varieties and I want people (in overseas markets) to
understand those regional differences. That the Barossa has 25 or
so sub-regions and they're all different. It's starting to happen
but it's going to take a long time."