Tony's Key Notes on the Heartland 04s

Tony Keys, The Key Report
 Sep 2005

The Key Report is published weekely and written by a team headed by Tony Keys, and is "the thinking person's critical weekly review and analysis of what's happening in the Australian Wine Industry."

"This week, eight wines from Heartland Wines. If positive media coverage was nourishment, Ben Glaetzer would be a very chubby bloke indeed. There is no denying he has done well and fully deserves his place as one of Australia's young gun winemakers. The rest of the Heartland team consists of Grant Tilbrook, Scott Collet, Geoff Hardy, Vicki Arnold, Gino Melino and John Pargeter.

As TKR is read mainly by those involved in the wine industry, there is little need to expand on the various merits of the above crew. In short, if they can't grow decent grapes, make good wine and flog it, the Australian wine industry is indeed up shit creek.

Stickleback Red 2004: Its accompanying tasting note was spot on: ‘A soft, spicy wine'. Easy drinking, bowl of pasta, few mates, lots of laughter, a wine to drink not think about.

Shiraz 2004: Abstract in style, broad, bold sweeps of colour. Raising the question: was it splashed or placed on the canvas? Very much placed in my opinion - it needs looking at from different angles; the beauty is not on the top but in the depths.

Petit Verdot 2004: Amazing how this grape performs in Australia. This one has a 10% Shiraz component that underpins it skilfully. I picked up a strong mulberry character with lovely mouth feel, not overbearing in any aspect.

Cabernet Sauvignon 2004: Whilst I was tasting this wine, a friend called in. I poured him a glass; he took a sip and asked if it was Coonawarra. Interestingly, I understood why he asked, but was reading the accompanying notes that said it was 55% Langhorne Creek and 45% Limestone coast. Despite its provenance it has a certain Coonawarra something about it. It also contains 10% Shiraz. Very well constructed, wonderful balance, a joy to drink.

Dolcetto Lagrein 2004: Oh yes Mr Glaetzer you do have something here, something outside the box! A wine that stretches the taste buds, wakes the buggers up and demands they take note. This is interesting, intellectual wine; one to think about and discuss; one that brings an added dimension to food but doesn't flatten it....this is a wine that should make critics sit up in the UK and realise the greater potential of Australian wines. "

The Key Report is the thinking person's critical weekly review and analysis of what's happening in the Australian Wine Industry.

Published weekly on-line, the Key Report will analyze what is being said in the press, both in Australia and overseas, keep a sharp eye on the financial dealings of listed wine companies, investigate and comment on many aspects of the Australian wine industry and provide interesting and entertaining weekly reading.

The Key Report is written by a team headed by Tony Keys, whose 30 years experience in the wine industry has included the writing of similar reports for AWEC (The Australian Wine Export Council) and Hazel Murphy at AWB (The Australian Wine Bureau in London), The Key Report will carry the news that invokes debate.